FREE Book: Profiles of the Past

February 26, 2017 at 11:45 am (entertainment, fashion, history, news) (, , , )

The University of Brighton has available online its publication, Profiles of the Past: Silhouette, Fashion and Image, 1760-1960.

profiles-of-the-past

It features

  • Annebella Pollen: Peering into the Shadows: Researching Silhouettes.
  • Bridget Millmore: ‘To turn sideways’ – an Examination of the Depiction of Hair and Head Dresses in late eighteen century Women’s Silhouettes.
  • Johanna Lance: Cutting an Elegant Figure: the Fashionable Male Silhouette, c1790-1820.
  • E-J Scott and Lou Taylor: The Impact of Neoclassicism on Silhouette Art in the late eighteenth century.
  • Suzanne Rowland: Fashion, Ageing and Identity in Regency Silhouettes, 1810-20.
  • Pallavi Patke: The Silhouette as Portrait and Conservation Piece, late 1830-1840s.
  • Gabriella Mihok: Shadow, Dress and Identity, 1890-1914
  • Jaclyn Pyper: The Material Culture of Nostalgia: Hubert Leslie, Baron Scotford and Twentieth Century Silhouette Portraiture.
  • Annebella Pollen: Silhouettes into the twenty-first century.

Click on the “cover” to obtain download options.

The website itself, discussing 250 years of British Portrait Silhouette history, is also worth exploring. See this page on Silhouette Methods and Materials. Costume enthusiasts and Regency Reenactors will welcome the generous Gallery of silhouettes.

The website also brought me (again) to The Regency Town House website. The link provides information on touring the house, which opens again in April 2017. “The House at 13 Brunswick Square, Hove [UK], is a Regency town house built in the 1820’s as part of Charles Busby’s Brunswick Estate.  We are creating an archive and museum focused on the history of Brighton & Hove between the 1780’s and 1840’s.”

I found them both while looking for MORE information about the Smith & Gosling silhouettes done by Auguste Edouart (they may have been among those that Edouart lost in a shipwreck! oh, wouldn’t you know…); see my past post entitled The Shades of Pemberley.

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In a Lady’s Reticule

June 12, 2016 at 12:54 am (entertainment, fashion, history) (, , )

When a Facebook query was made about what a Lady might have in her reticule, I simply had to reply:

ivory note pad

“An Ivory Note Pad!”

Wonderful photo, as you still see some writing on it! This particular specimen is a 2007 “sale”, but the write-up still proves interesting: Described as “3 inches long and 1.5 inches wide” you get an impression of how “DARLING” these items could be.

And who would want to be caught short when a fabulous thought, or Mr. Darcy’s address, was in need of being written down?!?

Have found one “reproduction” (complies with certain laws…) notebook, $135, in ‘brass’ with the intention of hanging from a chatelaine. Rather a neat idea.

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Scrolled Stockings? Not in Jane Austen’s Drawers

March 4, 2011 at 4:51 am (books, fashion) (, , , , , , , , , , )

Early in  My Jane Austen Summer: A Season in Mansfield Park (sent a review copy, I’m closing in on page 50), the author makes mention of “scrolled” socks worn by a costumed-character she terms “The Janeite”. Few might know what is being discussed at this point, but students of 18th and 19th century costume, or knitters (like me) who have worked socks, especially the lovely Bavarian and Austrian patterns, know well what the author alludes to. The correct term Cindy Jones was looking for is “CLOCK“.

Here’s the quote: She “raise[d] her skirt, revealing a scrolling design just above the ankle that would have been a tattoo except it was woven into the thick white stocking that covered her legs like something surgery patients wear.”

As a stocking tapers to the ankle, the only way to accomplish this is through decreasing — “clocks” evolved to be decorative and also functional at this narrowing point.

A nice knitting primer for stockings can be found here: http://www.marariley.net/knitting/stocking.htm

I have a pair of handknitted stockings I made years ago from an Austrian pattern:

It’s amazingly difficult to photograph one’s own leg!

The cables go down the entire stocking in this example, but you can see the small two-stitch cable that terminates beneath the elaborate cable just below the ankle bone. This is the area of Jones’ “scrolling”.

The Germans and Austrians — with their Dirndls and Lederhosen — have some wonderful stockings, highly patterned from top to bottom. Mine are simple in comparison to some I could display here. The yarns tend nowadays to be of heavier wool (mine are all worsted weight wools), which of course would not have the been the case for Jane Austen — or my Mary and Emma. Their stockings would have been fine-gauge. I did once make a Guernsey sweater on size 0 or 1 needles, so I know well how long it would take to knit something simple, like a pair of stockings in a fine wool.

* * *

  • Author Lesley-Anne McLeod has a lengthy, interesting, and link-filled Blogspot on this very topic.
  • The Powerhouse Museum in Sydney, Australia has a black silk pair (harder to view, therefore) that were never worn!
  • Heritage Studio actually has a pair, from the 19th century, for sale! In this case, the clocks are embroidered on after the stocking was made. Take a look at the fascinating up-close photo.

NB: if anyone out there is interested in some knitting pointers, just ask. Stockings are easier to knit than you think.

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